If you're tired of the cloying sweetness of dancing beauties and the sticky nouveau riche vibe of Moscow's nightlife, if your heart longs for the flickering of balls on a billiard table, and your stomach hasn't been set ablaze by the dishes cherished by real Mexicans, boldly head to the oldest bar of the Tex-Mex variety, which hides away in Crystal Lane, in the basement of the Gostiny Dvor.